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Azzedine Aaïa, From Fall-Winter 1982-1983 to Fall-Winter 2017-2018. Acquisitions with the support of the Vogue Paris Foundation Gala 2018. © Cyrille George JERUSALMI
“This year we are celebrating the fifth year of the Vogue Paris Foundation. These five editions of a grand dinner bear witness of Vogue Paris and the Palais Galliera’s strong commitment for contemporary creation.
We are paying homage to Azzedine Alaïa through important acquisitions of pieces from 1982 to 2017, including the ultimate model of his A/W 2017 ever last collection. These sublime works are joining the already wide Galliera collection of this great master of couture whose work was the subject of a retrospective exhibition at the Palais Galliera in 2013. Through this collection, his timeless heritage will keep on inspiring and influencing the creation to come.
Martin Margiela often came to the Palais Galliera to find his inspiration. He is the other important designer of this fifth edition. Twenty-two Margiela pieces, most of them displayed in the bold retrospective presented in the museum until July 15th 2018, will permanently enter the museum’s reserves, preserving the most complete collection of his work as a truthful reflection of the radical contribution the iconoclastic designer brought to Fashion.
Thanks to the fifth Vogue dinner, we were also able to acquire new pieces by great couturiers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga or Madame Grès, indispensable legacy of Fashion in the 20th Century. Emblematic pieces will enter in our collection as well. The mohair sweater Sew & Seditionaries, designed by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McMaren in 1976 and worn by Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols is one of them. This Punk masterpiece illustrates the powerful influence of Fashion on cultural and social movements characterizing our most recent History.
It is such an honour for me to pursue the formidable project my predecessor Olivier Saillard and Emmanuelle Alt initiated five years ago. I wish to thank them for their vision and their wit.
I warmly thank all the Fashion houses that lend every year their generous and exceptional support to the museum. Through their initiative, the museum is today considered as a stand of contemporary fashion but also as a leading institution of the Fashion history of the 21th Century in the making.”
— Miren Arzalluz, Directrice du Palais Galliera.
Those are the donations made to the Palais Galliera and the acquisitions that will soon enter the collections of the museum at the occasion of the Vogue Paris Foundation Gala of 2018:
> LES DONATIONS :
Anrealage by Kunihiko Morinaga, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2016, collection « REFLECT »
Appearance no.18. "Miror" suit, jacket and pleated skirt in photosensitive material.
Appearance no.28. "Kaleidoscope" dress in photosensitive material.
Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia, Ready-to-wear, A/W 2016-17
Appearance no.33. Blouse of printed crepe, embroided skirt and thigh boots.
Balmain by Olivier Rousteing, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 18. Embroided waisted jacket, knitted tunic with western motifs, classic shirt, smoking pants, antique coin necklace and suede boots.
Burberry by Christopher Bailey, Ready-to-wear, A/W 2018-19
Appearance no.82. Jacket, dress, legging, sneakers and tote bag.
Céline by Phoebe Philo, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 2. Double trenchcoat in sand silk, shirt and trousers of silk mix, black sheep belt and calfskin loafers.
Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, Haute couture, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 47. Long black dress in double-sided satin with jewels braces and necklace of pearls, earings, hat and boots.
Chloé by Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 11. Poplin silk dress with an inkjet printing from an original illustration by Rithika Merchant.
Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2017
Appearance no. 18. Cotton white t-shirt with “We should all be feminists” print, long navy embroided tulle skirt, knitted ecru lingerie.
Craig Green, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no.4. Polyester top and jeans.
Fendi by Silvia Venturini Fendi, “Peekaboo” bag. Multicolor calf velour intarsia multicolore and leather inside.
Givenchy by Clare Weight Keller, Haute couture, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 34. Cape top in hand embroided Iconic midnight blue organza and wool wide trousers.
Jacquemus, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018, “La Bomba” collection
Appearance no.16, braided straw hat, knitted cotton top, viscose draped skirt, wood and leather sandals, earings and small turquoise suede bag.
Jean Paul Gaultier, Haute couture, A/W 2017-18, “Ice queen” collection
“Global warming” model. Unveiled secrets of red crepe on a sari dress with an asymmetrical hood. Constellation of black glitters.
Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2017
Appearance no. 6. Silk and Lurex Pigna embroidery coat with a fox belt and hat.
J.W. Anderson, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2017
Appearance no. 27. Cotton striped jumper, cotton pleated blanket skirt, beaten bell brass earings and leather loafers.
Loewe by JW Anderson, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2017
Appearance no.43. Leather and cotton hessian dress Robe.
Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 1. Embroided white and blue redingote, white silk crop top, sky-blue mix silk shorts and Arch Light sneakers.
Miu Miu, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 15. Printed with campanulas leather coat, printed batiste shirt, cotton vest top, Nylon knitted jumper, Nylon socks, patent leather sandals and leather bag.
Mugler by Casey Cadwallader, Ready-to-wear, A/W 2018
Appearance no. 27. Malachite wool twill jacket and trousers.
Prada, Ready-to-wear, A/W 2018
Appearance no. 1. Nylon gabardine coat , pink tulle dress, Nylon and jersey socks and printed leather Frame bag.
Rick Owens, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2011, “Anthem” collection and S/S 2006, “Alix” et “Tungsten” collections
Pearl grey viscose jersey jacket and skirt.
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vacarello, Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 89. Cloud dress in fuchsia satin cut in a bat form.
Sonia Rykiel by Julie de Libran, Ready-to-wear, A/W 2017-18
Appearance no. 31. Cashmere dress with Jacquard weave multicolor “zigzag” stripes, turban-jumper and long matching scarf, black calfskin boots with push buttons.
Valentino by Pierpaolo Picchioli, Haute couture, S/S 2018
Appearance no.25. purple and fuchsia faille and organza “Silvia R.” Baby-doll dress with a maxi ruff and tied on the side. Fuchsia turquey feathers hat, Philip Treacy for Valentino Haute couture. Golden leather sandals.
> LES ACQUISITIONS :
Azzedine Alaïa :
A/W 1982-83
Grey wool overstitch jersey dress with a Zip in bias.
Green wool jersey dress with as apron.
Skirt suit in black leather.
S/S 1984
Black acetate jersey dress with an draped apron held by a hook.
A/W 1985-86
Long coat of black gabardine.
S/S 1986
Midnight-blue wool jacket with white embroideries on a white poplin shirt.
A/W 1988-89
Black acetate jersey evening dress.
Prince of Wales dress-coat with a pleated shirt.
S/S 1989
Ensemble including a coat, a scarf and an organza dress, under-dress in gold lame organza worn by Bettina Graziani.
A/W 1989-90
Body and headband made of jacquard jersey with Koranic calligraphy, worn by Bettina Graziani.
S/S 1991
Short skirt suit laced in the back, tribute to Tati.
A/W 1991-92
Long dress in mesh with corset effect and bands of puff, worn by Bettina Graziani.
Suit in red wool with button clips, lining and blouse printed with butterflies, tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli.
Short dress in leopard stretch lace, black velvet puff bands.
Loose faux leopard fur coat and leopard jacquard jersey dress.
S/S 1992
Hourglass corset belt made of black leather cut with laser
A/W 2010-11
Short jersey dress with jacquard leopard motifs in black and white anamorphosis.
A/W 2017-18
Velvet and metallic stitches vening dress, last design of the Azzedine Alaïa’s last show.
Balenciaga :
Haute couture, hiver 1963
Appearance no. 32, ensemble bodice and skirt with transparent laminated Lurex.
Haute couture, hiver 1964
Appearance no. 81, elegant dress with tulle on satin, tulle embroideries, gold thread and glitter.
Suit with a jacket, a skirt and a belt in Scottish twill, silk pongee lining, leather.
Haute couture, vers 1965
Elegant dress in mechanically made lace of the kind of Chantilly, lace and satin ribbons.
Haute couture, vers 1966
Day dress in silk crepe.
Haute couture, été 1967
Appearance no. 114, linen tunic, stripped satin.
Evening coat with glitters embroideries (Lunéville technique of maison Lesage).
Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld, Ready-to-wear, S/S 1966
“Tertulia”, silk muslin short dress hand painted by Le Besnerais.
Grès, Haute couture, S/S 1980
Evening pleated dress in silk jersey and black viscose, belt, skirt lining and cape.
Martin Margiela :
Ready-to-wear, S/S 1989
Pair of tabis from the first Margiela show.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 1994-95
Reproduction of a doll evening skirt in black satin, enlarged to human size.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 1995
Reproduction of a doll day skirt in printed Prince-de-Galles fabric, enlarged to human size.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 1996
Muslin skirt printed with the photograph of a tweed skirt
Saint dress printed with the photograph of the lining of a dress.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 1997-98
Sleeves of a model in raw printed linen.
Wig realized with recycled fur coats, collaboration with Bless.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 1998
Suit in cotton with metal hooks.
Elastic black structure.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 1999
Jacket printed with a photograph of the “Stockman” vest and removable shoulder pads.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 1999-2000
Quilt coat and duvet cover made of recycled flowery.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 2000-01
XXXXL jacket in beige calfskin velvet.
Pearl necklace “à la Nattier”.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 2002-03
Recycled bag covered by a white cotton cover.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 2004-05
“Artisanale” jacket made of recycled and overdyed jackets in the style of Chanel.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 2005
Blouse dress in black crepe worn horizontally as a dress.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 2007
Pair of slippers in transparent PVC and Plexiglas.
High-waisted asymmetrical skirt in red viscose jersey.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 2007-08
Pair of leather trompe l’oeil boots, silver on flesh colour.
Black goat fur ring worn as a top.
Sex & Seditionaries by Vivienne Westwood et Malcolm McLaren :
Ready-to-wear, 1976
Black, red, turquoise, blue, pink and white mohair sweater with holes, safety pins, worn by Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols.
Ready-to-wear, 1976
Jacket with a flesh coloured harness, red sleeve, industrially tarnished with a portrait Karl Marx.
Yohji Yamamoto :
Ready-to-wear, A/W 2017-18
Appearance no. 6. Draped dress in black polyester taffeta and long-sleeved T-shirt.
Ready-to-wear, S/S 2018
Appearance no. 22. Backpack in red cotton with crinoline hoops, cotton dress, half-hat and pair of black boots.
Appearance no. 37. Black cotton draped backless dress closed by hooks, half-hat and black boots.
Ready-to-wear, A/W 2018-19
Appearance no. 16. Black wool coat in tribute to Picasso.
Appearance no. 33. High-waisted skirt in cotton and goat leather, asymmetrical cotton shirt, skirt and pair of black boots in tribute to Azzedine Alaïa.
TO LEARN MORE :
> The Gala on Vogue.fr
> The Photocall of models on Vogue.fr
> Acquisitions and donations on Vogue.fr