Drawing, Maison Grès

  • Maison Grès

  • 27x21 cm
  • Gift of the Pierre Bergé / Yves Saint Laurent Foundation
  • Summer 1951
  • Indian ink, pencil, colour pencil on tracing paper
  • GAL211.E.5.46
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

 Here recourse to tracing paper heightens the impact of the drawing by giving it a three-dimensional effect. Madame Grès was widely known for her pleated or draped jersey evening dresses, but her daytime and afternoon wear also displayed enormous creativity. This example is especially typical of her work in the 1950s: the teasing contrast between the austere front and a mostly bare back, a cut intended to minimise and conceal the seams, and a design based on the capacity of wool jersey to mould the body while doing away with tucks.

The model's tummy-in hips-forward pose is a pointer to the stances specific to the decade and to the ideal body-language for highlighting the garment.  

Notice's author : Laurent Cotta