Coat, Martin Margiela

  • Martin Margiela

  • Label in virgin white cotton canvas held by 4 stitching points, visible on the nape of the neck.
  • Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 1997-98, "Stockman" collection
  • Wool 80% wool 20% polyamide brushed black. White "unbreakable" cotton frame yarns. Coarse silver plated metal buttons.
  • GAL2020.2.28
  • Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019 ; former Malika Larbi Ben Abdesselam collection
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

In the continuity of the spring-summer 1997 season, this collection is dedicated to the stages in the creation of a garment. The Stockman bust worn as a jacket is once again the basis.

Coat, jacket or dress halves run through the collection, in reference to the half-canvas, a preliminary assembly of the pieces of a garment using wide needlepoint stitches. Left unfinished, these garments keep track of the technical indications specific to sewing workshops. In the workshops, the frame draws with white thread on the fabric the locations of future darts and seams. These threads are ephemeral and are always removed once the garment is finished. But in this collection, they are unbreakable. The dresses and coats are studied in many colours, a profusion reminiscent of those found in fabric shops. When a buyer places an order, these garments are offered in black or colour. If he chooses the second option, the delivered model can be, according to a random principle, of any colour.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson