Draft for the 'Porcupine' bonnet, Madeleine Panizon

  • Madeleine Panizon

  • 28,5 x 28,5 cm
  • Bottom right, black ink stamp: '2e VENTE / M. PANIZON / 12 Mars 1986'
  • Musée Galliera Collection
  • circa 1925
  • Black ink and gouache on paper
  • GAL2013.0.6
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Born Madeleine Buisset, the milliner Madeleine Panizon set up in business on Rue Ponthieu in Paris in the 1920s. Although seldom mentioned in the press at the time, she had a reputation for being particularly daring and inventive. She offered her clients, among them the Marquise de Lubersac, highly original headwear that included helmets ornamented with tassels, embroidery and silver buttons. 

In 1925, she showed at the International Exhibition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts in Paris, taking out the Prix d'Honneur with a driver's or pilot's helmet. Her reputation had already been confirmed when Paul Poiret, after closing his own millinery workshop in the early 1920s, commissioned her to make the hats to go with his dresses.
The Palais Galliera has an example of this extravagant porcupine helmet/hat in grey crepe with a grey felt cone. The drawing shows the brick-red version.

Notice's author : Marie-Laure Gutton