Dress coat, Alaïa

  • Azzedine Alaïa

  • Woven satin label, inside middle back neckline, black on white: "ALAIA / PARIS"
  • Ready-to-wear, Fall-Winter 1988-89
  • Grey houndstooth wool twill, partially pleated
  • GAL2019.1.8
  • Acquisition Vogue Paris Foundation 2018
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

This dress coat celebrates the tailor's talent that Azzedine Alaïa has renewed throughout her career. The dress with its trompe-l'oeil bodice, the pleated skirt opening to walking like the houndstooth wool, are all references to Christian Dior's heritage and his New Look, the origin of fashion in the 1950s.

Inspired by the silhouettes of Greta Garbo and Arletty, the masculine line with its square shoulders is feminized by the model's play on proportion, its curved waist and its wide skirt with permanent pleats.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson