Dress, Martin Margiela


  • Martin Margiela

  • Inscription concerning the model in printed canvas, inside back right side, black on white: "REPRODUCTION OF A SERIES / INSIDE OF CLOTHING - / *Lining of a dress / Germany. 1950's / [English translation]"
  • Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 1995-96, collection called "fuchsia"
  • Satin lining 60% acetate and 40% fuchsia viscose.
  • GAL2020.2.25
  • Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019; former Vicky Roditis collection
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

For the 1995-1996 fall-winter season, Martin Margiela returns to a "classic" fashion show format. Buses are requisitioned to take the guests to the parade site, under the red circus Santus tent. Inside, they sit on the wooden bleachers forming a circle. They are given white plastic cups filled with red wine.

The first silhouettes are entirely black until pink and fuchsia are spread in touches, then flattened as the models arrive, until they completely cover the silhouettes and their coordinated veils.

Based on the previous season's model, this collection includes the five groups (models from old collections, replicas of old clothes, the doll's wardrobe enlarged to human size, the "hand-made" line and the basics of the garment) to which a sixth group is added, reflecting Martin Margiela's interest in the back of the garments from the very beginning: the linings worn as clothing.

This "lining worn as a dress" is based on a model from the 1960s. Presented for the first time in grey in the spring-summer 1995 collection, it is presented here in fuchsia, the main colour of the collection, with woollen tights and a coordinated veil.


Notice's author : Alexandre Samson