Ensemble, Alaïa

• Azzedine Alaïa

• Satin label woven on the jacket and blouse, inside middle back neckline and skirt, inside back waist left side, black on white: "ALAIA / PARIS"
• Ready-to-wear, Fall-Winter 1991-92
• Cherry red wool crepe. Purple enamelled metal. Synthetic crepe printed with butterflies in yellow, blue and red tones on a mastic background. Pearly shell buttons.
• GAL2019.1.13.1-3
• Acquisition Vogue Paris Foundation 2018
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

This set, whose sophisticated skirt cut is inspired by the Amazon outfits of the late 19th century, particularly flatters the female body. "The fall of the kidneys - specifies the couturier in 1996, the arch of the lower back and the shape of the buttocks, it is much more important than the breasts. That's what makes a beautiful silhouette.

Like the collection, the butterflies printed on the blouse and lining of the jacket pay a new tribute to Arletty, and to her combination worn in Dominique Bernard-Deschamps' film Tempête (1940), with a bodice adorned with a large black satin lepidoptera. Moreover, this print evokes the influence of the seamstress Elsa Schiaparelli by echoing her "Papillon" collection from the summer of 1937, of which the Galliera Palace has an evening gown.

>> Discover the show on Vogue.fr

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson