Ensemble, Céline by Hedi Slimane

• Céline by Hedi Slimane

• Label on the dress in woven satin, inside back neckline on the left side, black on white: " CELINE / PARIS "
• Ready-to-wear, spring-summer 2019
• Embroidery of tortoiseshell-like plates held by 4 small black plastic beads. Embroidery of black beads. Black silk satin. Black wool crepe. Black acetate. Black smoked PVC. Silver plated metal. Black calf leather decorated with rivets. Black painted wood.
• GAL2020.6.1.1-8
• Don Céline - Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Hedi Slimane was born in Paris in 1968. Passionate about photography, he studied art history at Michelet and then at the Ecole du Louvre. In 1997, he directed the ready-to-wear collections of the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house. In 2000, Dior offered him the position of artistic director of the men's collections. He then imposed a new slim, slender silhouette, with a reduced stature, symbolised by narrow jeans called "skinny", which would soon be taken up by the street in large numbers.

In 2012, Pierre Bergé once again invited him to join Yves Saint Laurent as artistic director. The studio is relocated to Los Angeles and the label is renamed "Saint Laurent Paris". The first collections divide the critics. However, after several collections, the influence of Hedi Slimane's style is palpable.

In 2018, Hedi Slimane replaced Phoebe Philo as artistic director of the house of Céline and imposed his own style in line with his proposals for Saint Laurent.

This feminine silhouette is representative of the designer's own "rock" aesthetic, inspired in particular by the 1960s. The very short dress surprises by the sophistication of its embroideries. Imitating a plastic crocodile skin and black micro pearls, it is reminiscent of some of Yves Saint Laurent's creations around 1966.

It bears witness to the influence, continuity and intransigence of the style imposed by Hedi Slimane since 2000.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson