Ensemble, Comme des Garçons

COMBINAISON-PANTALON, BUSTE, TEE-SHIRT, LEGGING ET PAIRE DE BOTTINES

  • Comme des Garçons

  • Label on the woven satin jumpsuit inside middle back neckline, ochre on black: "COMME des GARCONS".
  • Ready-to-wear, spring-summer 2019
  • 100% black polyester fishnet fully covered with applications of small 100% black polyester satin ribbons, interwoven with white cotton canvas. Polyester resin entirely covered with 100% white polyester jersey printed in black and red tones (Collier's, 17 July 1937, p.64). Shiny white leather (cowhide). Black elastane mesh.
  • GAL2020.2.9.1-6
  • Donation, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

The Japanese school, which has been on parade in Paris since the 1980s, is well represented in the collections of the Palais Galliera. Comme des Garçons by Rei Kawakubo (1942-Aug.) is one of its most intense representatives, while some of its proposals continue to shock almost 40 years later.

In spring-summer 1997, her collection "Body meets dress, dress meets body" marks the history of fashion with its bodies deformed by cotton cushions positioned under stretch printed fabrics.

Like an echo, the spring-summer 2019 season marks by its rigid protuberances covered with jersey printed newspaper or trompe-l'oeil tattoos.

Rei Kawakubo once again questions the body through this richly embroidered trouser suit, but with a slit belly revealing a pregnant woman's prosthesis covered with newspaper print. The title of this publication, tu by the creator, comes from the American newspaper Collier's, of July 17, 1937 and from the article "Only the Shells Whine" by Martha Gellhorn, dedicated to the violence of the Battle of Madrid, besieged by Franco's troops in November 1936.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson