Ensemble, Comme des Garçons

DOUBLE COAT, DOUBLE PANIEMANTEAU, BASKET, TEE-SHIRT, LEGGINGS AND PAIR OF BOOTSR, TEE-SHIRT, LEGGINGS AND PAIR OF BOOTS

  • Comme des Garçons 

  • Label on the coat in woven satin inside, middle back neckline, ochre on black: "COMME des GARCONS"
  • Ready-to-wear, spring-summer 2019
  • Satin 52% wool and 48% black silk. Taffeta in black cupro. Gabardine 100% black wool. Satin and twill with tennis stripes 100% black cupro. Polyester resin entirely covered with 100% polyester flesh jersey printed in shades of blue and red. Jersey 100% polyester flesh printed in shades of blue and red. White interior. Shiny black cowhide leather. Black elastane mesh.
  • GAL2020.2.10.1-6
  • Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

The Japanese school, which has been on parade in Paris since the 1980s, is well represented in the collections of the Palais Galliera. Comme des Garçons by Rei Kawakubo (1942-Aug.) is one of its most intense representatives, while some of its proposals continue to shock almost 40 years later.

In spring-summer 1997, her collection "Body meets dress, dress meets body" marks the history of fashion with its bodies deformed by cotton cushions positioned under stretch printed fabrics.

Like an echo, the spring-summer 2019 season marks by its rigid protuberances covered with jersey printed newspaper or trompe-l'oeil tattoos.

This silhouette multiplies references. On the hips, we find deformations as if the body had mutated with baskets from the 18th century. The print, a tattoo decorated with interlaced chains and roses, is reminiscent of certain textile decorations of garlands around 1750, while the sections of the large double frock coat are braided in the back like crayfish tails, fashionable between 1874 and 1876.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson