Ensemble, Loewe

• Loewe by J.W. Anderson

• Label on the dress in woven twill, back neckline on the left side, black on white: "LOEWE"
• Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 2018-19
• Black cotton poplin. Embroideries in tubes or in thrown stitch with large multicoloured wool and multicoloured Lurex threads. Black leather. Stretch. Golden metal. Brown boot heel. Natural suede calfskin.
• GAL2020.15.1.1-3
• Donation of Loewe - Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

The Spanish company Loewe, founded in 1846, was acquired by the LVMH group in 1996. In 2016, it appointed the British designer Jonathan W. Anderson as its artistic director. Anderson composes his silhouettes like collages and honours craftsmanship in all its forms, a signature of Loewe, which has created the Loewe Craft Prize to support artisans and designers.

This long dress evokes the craftsmanship at à la griffe. Part of the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, it is adorned with rings made of large, multicoloured wool and Lurex yarns that hold back days revealing a woman's stomach, thighs and calves.  This hand embroidery, found on collars and cuffs, is finished with long floating threads.

Although it is not claimed by the ready-to-wear house, this embroidery in woollen threads is reminiscent of the work of Sheila Hicks, the subject of an exhibition at the Musée National d'Art Moderne - Centre Pompidou (February 2018 - 30 April 2018).

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson