Ensemble, Martin Margiela


  • Martin Margiela

  • Label in white cotton canvas held by 4 stitching points, visible on the nape of the neck.
  • Ready-to-wear, spring-summer 1998, "plate" ("flat") collection
  • Organza 100% transparent polyester. Silver plated metal. Black plastic. Transparent and white plastic.
  • GAL2020.2.31
  • Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019 ; former Vicky Roditis collection
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

After the clothes in paper patterns of the previous season (autumn-winter 1997-98), Martin Margiela decided to create only flat clothes.

He makes the film of the collection himself and designs the pattern for it. The script consists of ten folded, accordion-folded leaflets of photographs glued and annotated by the designer's hand on white cotton. Numbered from "0" to "10", these leaflets correspond to the ten themes of the collection.

Sequences 3 and 4 are inspired by a piece that appeared for the spring-summer 1990 challenge, a Monoprix plastic bag worn as a top, which takes up the flat aspect: "Shopping bag. Structures packaging bags are the basis for dresses and t-shirts. "This "invisible" tunic is made of synthetic, transparent organza, with shiny reflections and a structure inspired by a paper gusseted bag, like those used for fruit and vegetables.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson