Ensemble, Walter Van Beirendonck

FROCK COAT AND BUTTONED TIE, BIB, TIE, TROUSERS AND PAIR OF SHOES

  • Walter Van Beirendonck

  • Label on woven satin frock coat, inside middle back neckline, white on black: "WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK"
  • Ready-to-wear, autumn-winter 2001-02, "Revolution" collection
  • 100% bright yellow wool felt. Pongee 100% Cupro black. Bright yellow cotton canvas. Beige horn. Yellow, red, burgundy, green printed cotton canvas on a white background. Shell. Cotton canvas printed in shades of red, orange, green, red and white Vichy and white flowers on red, all on a dark green background. Cotton canvas printed in orange and red on a brown background and green on white. Tarnished metal. White polyester strips. Shaped black leather. Black cotton laces. Raw leather, beige leather.
  • GAL2020.2.51.1-7
  • Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Flemish fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck (1957-present) is one of the '6 of Antwerp', alongside Dries Van Noten, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene and Ann Demeulemeester. Graduates of the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts between 1980 and 1982, they chose to show their collections together in London from then on, before dissociating themselves around 1989.

Mottled, playful, political, sometimes outraged, Walter Van Beirendonck's style differs from that of his more sober-looking colleagues. His collections question gender, society, and the canons of beauty while playing with the structure of classic clothing, which he deforms with fantasy and provocation.

But above all, Walter Van Beirendonck is a major figure in the history of men's fashion, whose wardrobe he renews, breaks the austere codes and brightens up the creative aridity.

For the spring-summer of 2001, the designer presents "Revolution", a collection inspired by the "Incredibles" of the Directoire. He cites the colourful fracs, oversized collars and wide ties of this group of young aristocrats who, during the Directoire (1795-1799), challenged with their outraged silhouettes the after-effects left by the Terror imposed by Robespierre's regime in Paris.

Walter Van Beirendonck pays homage to them through the shape of the frac treated in chick yellow wool, and the high collar, brightened by numerous contrasting prints whose motifs are inspired by outdated wallpapers. The toe of the shoes follows the shape of the toes, as if the leather had rested on the foot.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson