Men's ensemble, Rick Owens

• Rick Owens

• Label on the tank top in twill printed inside middle back right side, black on grey: "Rick Owens". Inscription for the fashion show on the twill tank top printed inside middle back left side, black on grey: "TECUATL S/S 20"
• Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 2019-20, "Tecuatl" collection
• 100% cotton jersey, stone washed oyster grey. Irregularly shaped black twill [synthetic fibres]. Black cowhide leather. Black elastane mesh. Clay green calf leather. Clay green calf leather. Stacking of dark grey calf leather with dark grey edges. Black calf leather. Black rubber.
• GAL2020.19.1.1-4
• Donation of Rick Owens ; Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

The silhouettes imagined by Rick Owens, often black and spectacular, impress by their brutal forms or primitive drapes. However, the designer also created a softer wardrobe where jersey clothing triumphs.

This silhouette is the one in which Rick Owens greets at the end of his autumn-winter 2019 fashion show on 17 January 2019 at the Palais de Tokyo.

It consists of a wide cut tank top in "oyster grey" jersey, with a swimmer's back covered by a single seam in the middle of the back. The black low crotch trousers are tightened at the waist by a long cord of the same grey, which is found on many parts of the label.

At his feet, Rick Owens wears a pair of platform boots with high heels developed for his men's collection. Widespread in the 17th and 18th centuries, heels gradually disappeared from the men's wardrobe before reappearing briefly in the 1970s, influenced by some of the disco or hard rock outfits.

The interest of our contemporary age in gender issues is reflected in fashion. Far from any feminisation, Rick Owens here produces a piece that remains, by its proportions, a truly masculine accessory. 

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson