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Dear visitors, 

After the success of "A History of Fashion", our second collections tour will open to the public in June 2023.

This next collections tour will be an opportunity for you to discover a new history of fashion, from the 18th century to the present day, through our exceptional collections presented in a new theme dedicated to the body in motion.

The link between fashion and sport will be the subject of the second display of this new collections tour, echoing the Olympic Games that will be held in Paris in 2024.

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  • 'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli

'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli

  • Elsa Schiaparelli, embroidery by Lesage

  • White label with trademark printed in black: Schiaparelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris. Black stamp: HIVER / 1938-39 ['WINTER / 1938-39']
  • Gift of the children and grandchildren of Daisy Fellowes
  • Winter 1938-1939
  • Pink ratteen, paillette embroidery, sunray mask of tinsel and gold thread. Lining of quilted pink silk crepe, gold buttons and trim
  • GAL1963.20.8
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

This iconic garment from the 'Cosmic' winter collection of 1938–1939 belonged to the famously elegant Mrs Reginald Fellowes, a wearer of the most extravagant Schiaparelli creations, including Salvador Dalí's 'shoe hat' ensemble. So named because of its sunray mask—the term 'Phoebus' identified the god Apollo with the sun—this cape was designed by Christian Bérard and featured in the October 1938 issue of Vogue. A strikingly theatrical effect is obtained by the contrast between the simplicity of the front and the luxuriance of the embroidery on the back. The colour reminds us of Elsa Schiaparelli's predilection for 'shocking' pink; indeed, she titled her biography Shocking Life. 

>> LISTEN TO THE PODCAST (4'16 mn)

Paris Musées · Palais Galliera | Lecturer's eye | ‘Phoebus’ cape by Charlotte

Notice's author : Sophie Grossiord

'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli © Eric Emo / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera
  • 'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli © Eric Emo / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera
  • 'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli © Eric Emo / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera
  • 'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli © Eric Emo / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera
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