ABOUT OUR COLLECTIONS

Dear visitors,

For the first time in the history of the Palais Galliera, our new galleries located on the garden level offer you a unique look at the history of fashion, from the 18th century to the present day, through a renewed tour of our collections.

'Phoebus' cape, Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli, embroidery by Lesage
White label with trademark printed in black: Schiaparelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris. Black stamp: HIVER / 1938-39 ['WINTER / 1938-39']
Gift of the children and grandchildren of Daisy Fellowes
Winter 1938-1939
Pink ratteen, paillette embroidery, sunray mask of tinsel and gold thread. Lining of quilted pink silk crepe, gold buttons and trim
GAL1963.20.8
Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

This iconic garment from the 'Cosmic' winter collection of 1938–1939 belonged to the famously elegant Mrs Reginald Fellowes, a wearer of the most extravagant Schiaparelli creations, including Salvador Dalí's 'shoe hat' ensemble. So named because of its sunray mask—the term 'Phoebus' identified the god Apollo with the sun—this cape was designed by Christian Bérard and featured in the October 1938 issue of Vogue. A strikingly theatrical effect is obtained by the contrast between the simplicity of the front and the luxuriance of the embroidery on the back. The colour reminds us of Elsa Schiaparelli's predilection for 'shocking' pink; indeed, she titled her biography Shocking Life.

>> LISTEN TO THE PODCAST (4'16 mn)

Paris Musées · Palais Galliera | Lecturer's eye | ‘Phoebus’ cape by Charlotte

Notice's author : Sophie Grossiord