Top and skirt, Martine Sitbon

  • Martine Sitbon 

  • Label on the top in woven canvas inside middle back, woven white and red on black: "- Martine_SITBON"
  • Ready-to-wear, autumn-winter 1997-98, "Les Arbres" collection
  • Petrol blue viscose and Lurex jersey
  • GAL2020.2.46.1-2
  • Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

The 1997-98 spring-summer season is one of Martine Sitbon's most famous. Her tight dresses, sculpted in devoured muslin and velvet, draw tree branches, like snapshots of the undergrowth at dusk. Cut-outs run through the garment and reveal the feminine skin.

This is the case of this top and skirt ensemble in tight jersey, immortalised by Jeanloup Sieff (1933-2000) for the New York Magazine (August 1997), with three back cuts revealing the backbone at an angle. The severe front, with a high collar, does not suggest a dorsal neckline, according to a ploy that has been fashionable since the 1930s.

About this creation, Martine Sitbon confides: "I often worked on the garment as a play on contrast... A strict and structured front combined with a back open to movement, like a marriage of two extremes, a necessary asymmetry. »

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson