Waistcoat, Martin Margiela

  • Martin Margiela

  • Gift of DEFI, the Committee for the Development and Promotion of Clothing
  • Spring-Summer 1990
  • Promotional flyers and posters, cut paper glued onto cotton
  • GAL1990.107.1
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Made from slashed flyers overlaid on a cotton base, this waistcoat is a unique piece. It is part of the collections Margiela shows during haute couture week to demonstrate that the value of his work lies not in the cost of the materials, but in his creativity.

The waistcoat is worn over an oversize men's undershirt whose unusual proportions modify not only its use but also its texture, giving the humble cotton undershirt a line and a look reminiscent of the evening dresses of the 1930s. The two items making up this silhouette are characteristic of Martin Margiela and his thinking about clothes.

Martin Margiela shakes up the standard fashion codes, especially where fashion shows are concerned: his spring/summer 1990 fashion show took place on a vacant lot in Paris's 20th arrondissement, a far cry in every sense from the traditional venue, the Cour Carré at the Louvre. 

Notice's author : Laurent Cotta