Margiela / Galliera, 1989-2009

Martin Margiela, waistcoat, Spring-Summer 1990. © Françoise Cochennec / Galliera / Roger-Viollet

Martin Margiela, waistcoat, Spring-Summer 1990. Made from slashed posters overlaid on a cotton base. © Françoise Cochennec / Galliera / Roger-Viollet

From March 3rd to July 15th, 2018

This exhibition, the first retrospective in Paris devoted to Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela, traces the career, from spring-summer 1989 to spring-summer 2009, of a designer who not only questioned the structure of garments but also challenged the structure of the fashion system.

Martin Margiela (b. Louvain, 1957) graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, in 1980. After a stint as Jean Paul Gaultier’s assistant between 1984 and 1987, he was associated with the Antwerp school and became the only Belgian designer of his generation to found his own fashion house in Paris.

Margiela’s conceptual approach challenged the fashion aesthetics of his time. His way of constructing a garment involved deconstructing it, exposing the inside, the lining, and the unfinished parts, and revealing the different stages of manufacture: pleats, shoulder pads, patterns, bastings and all.

He pushed the scale of a garment to extremes, enlarging the proportions to 200% in his “Oversize Collection”, for example, or by adapting dolls’ clothes to the life-size human form in the “Barbie Collection”. He printed trompe-l’oeil photos of dresses, sweaters and coats and established a new form of “cloven” shoe inspired by traditional Japanese tabis, i.e. with the big toe separated from the others.

Margiela questioned the obsolescence of clothes with his «Artisanal» collection, created from vintage garments and recovered materials transformed into unique hand-sewn pieces. And also with his “Replica” series of vintage clothes garnered from around the world and reproduced identically.

Margiela remains the creator without a face, the man who does not do interviews, and whose clothes came with a plain white label bereft of any brand-name. This man who promotes anonymity is famous, not only for his use of white, a colour that he espoused in a multitude of shades, but also for holding his défilés in unusual venues: in car-parks, warehouses, a metro station, or on waste ground.

Using more than 100 silhouettes, videos of défilés, House archives and special installations, the Margiela / Galliera exhibition offers us an unprecedented look at one of the most influential contemporary fashion designers.


Curator : Alexandre Samson, in charge of the Palais Galliera's contemporary collections

Visitor information

Price:

Full rate 10 € / Reduced rate 8 € / Free under 18 - Cash and charge (except American Express) are accepted.

Cloakrooms
There are cloakrooms inside the museum. You can store your coat and your bag but not valuables such as money or identity documents. Luggages and big items are not allowed.

Safety information:
Following the terror attacks in Paris in 2015, the Palais Galliera is strictly applying the security measures decided by the french authorities. We thank you to submit you to the controls set up to assure your safety, and we wish you a good visit.

Accessibility's exhibition:

- Visitors with a disability
Ticket website:
Ticket access
Information:

PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEUM
10 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie 75116 Paris

Getting here :
Métro : Iéna or Alma-Marceau (line  9), Boissière (ligne 6)
Buses n°32, 42, 63, 72, 80, 82, 92
Vélib' : 4 rue de Longchamp, 1 rue Bassano, 2 avenue Marceau
Autolib' : 1 avenue Marceau, 33 avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, 24 avenue d'Iéna

Opening times :
Open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, Tuesday to Sunday
Late openings on Thursdays until 9:00 pm
Closed on Monday and public holidays
Ticket office close 45 minutes before closing time : Last entry to the exhibition at 5:15 pm (and 8:15 pm on Thursday). 

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