Margiela / Galliera, 1989-2009

Martin Margiela, gilet, Printemps-Été 1990. © Françoise Cochennec / Galliera / Roger-Viollet

Martin Margiela, waistcoat, Spring-Summer 1990. Made from slashed posters overlaid on a cotton base. © Françoise Cochennec / Galliera / Roger-Viollet

From March 3rd to July 15th, 2018

This exhibition, the first retrospective in Paris devoted to Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela, traces the career, from spring-summer 1989 to spring-summer 2009, of a designer who not only questioned the structure of garments but also challenged the structure of the fashion system.

Martin Margiela (b. Louvain, 1957) graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, in 1980. After a stint as Jean Paul Gaultier’s assistant between 1984 and 1987, he was associated with the Antwerp school and became the only Belgian designer of his generation to found his own fashion house in Paris.

Margiela’s conceptual approach challenged the fashion aesthetics of his time. His way of constructing a garment involved deconstructing it, exposing the inside, the lining, and the unfinished parts, and revealing the different stages of manufacture: pleats, shoulder pads, patterns, bastings and all.

He pushed the scale of a garment to extremes, enlarging the proportions to 200% in his “Oversize Collection”, for example, or by adapting dolls’ clothes to the life-size human form in the “Barbie Collection”. He printed trompe-l’oeil photos of dresses, sweaters and coats and established a new form of “cloven” shoe inspired by traditional Japanese tabis, i.e. with the big toe separated from the others.

Margiela questioned the obsolescence of clothes with his «Artisanal» collection, created from vintage garments and recovered materials transformed into unique hand-sewn pieces. And also with his “Replica” series of vintage clothes garnered from around the world and reproduced identically.

Margiela remains the creator without a face, the man who does not do interviews, and whose clothes came with a plain white label bereft of any brand-name. This man who promotes anonymity is famous, not only for his use of white, a colour that he espoused in a multitude of shades, but also for holding his défilés in unusual venues: in car-parks, warehouses, a metro station, or on waste ground.

Using more than 130 silhouettes, videos of défilés, House archives and special installations, the Margiela / Galliera exhibition offers us an unprecedented look at one of the most influential contemporary fashion designers.


Artistic director  : Martin Margiela
Curator : Alexandre Samson, in charge of the Palais Galliera's contemporary collections

With the partnership of             

With a full price ticket from the Palais Galliera, benefit from a reduced for visiting the exhibition 'Margiela, les années Hermès' at MAD Paris - and reciprocally.
Hashtag : #MargielaGalliera

Visitor information


Full rate 10 € / Reduced rate 8 € / Free under 18 - Cash and charge (except American Express) are accepted.

Partnership agreements
- With your Paris Musées Card, benefit from a free and unlimited access to this exhibition.
- With your Paris Passlib', benefit from a free and unlimited access to this exhibition.
- With your Paris Première Pass, access to this exhibition is free (valid for 2 people).
- With a full price ticket from the MAD Paris, benefit from a reduced rate for visiting this exhibition - and reciprocally (valid from March 22nd to July 15th, 2018).
- With a full price ticket from the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, benefit from a reduced rate for visiting this exhibition - and reciprocally (valid only the same day).
- With a full price ticket from the Palais de Tokyo, benefit from a reduced rate for visiting this exhibition - and reciprocally.

There are cloakrooms inside the museum. You can store your coat and your bag but not valuables such as money or identity documents. Luggages and big items are not allowed.

Safety information:
Following the terror attacks in Paris in 2015, the Palais Galliera is strictly applying the security measures decided by the french authorities. We thank you to submit you to the controls set up to assure your safety, and we wish you a good visit.

Accessibility's exhibition:

- Visitors with a disability
Ticket website:
Ticket access

10 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie 75116 Paris

Getting here :
- Métro Iéna or Alma-Marceau (line 9)
- Bus : lines 32, 63, 82 (stop Iéna) / lines 42, 72, 80, 92 (stop Alma-Marceau)
- Vélib' : 4 rue de Longchamp, 1 rue Bassano, 2 avenue Marceau
- Autolib' : 1 avenue Marceau, 33 avenue Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, 24 avenue d'Iéna 

Opening times :
Open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm
Late openings on Thursdays until 9:00 pm
Closed on Monday and on May 1st *
/!\ Ticket office close 45 minutes before closing time - Last access can be moved foward due to visitor over congestion. /!\

* [EXCEPTIONAL OPENING]: In 2018, the museum is open on the following official holidays : April 1st (Easter), May 8th (Armistice 1945), May 10th (Ascension Day), May 20th (Pentecost) and July 14th (National Day).

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