The recent acquisition of this coat lifts a veil on Suzanne Bertillon, a little-known artist on the edge of couture.
"Miss Bertillon [...] has found a new process to fix gold applications on light fabrics", notes La Renaissance de l’art français et des industries de luxe, as early as 1918. Her growing fame led her to exhibit, from 1919 onwards, at the Salon d'Automne, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and the Galliera Museum.
In 1925, L'Art vivant became enthusiastic about her velvets printed with hand-prepared colours: "These fabrics are of an opulence that irresistibly evokes the sumptuous research of the Renaissance. ...] The compositions, which she engraves herself on wood or linoleum, are easy to make and very deliberately contemporary."