'Sésostris' formal coat, Paul Poiret

  • Paul Poiret

  • Unlabelled
  • Autumn–Winter 1923
  • Red silk velvet; black silk satin with gold lamé; gilded leather fastener; cotton thread and synthetic passementerie; black fur; lining in coral-red crepe and black muslin.
  • GAL1991.181.X
  • Former Musée Galliera collection
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

The renewed craze for all things Egyptian triggered by the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb in 1922 explains the name of this gown, while the patterns betray the Chinese influence that was an enduring feature of Paul Poiret's work. 
Ending in a square, fur-edged train, this sumptuous coat displays the couturier's abiding taste for the theatrical, a feature going somewhat against the grain of 1920s style.

Notice's author : Sophie Grossiord