Ensemble, Martin Margiela

• Martin Margiela

• Label on the dress in white virgin cotton canvas held by 4 stitching points, inside middle back, visible on the outside.
• Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 2008-09
• Knit 38% mohair, 38% wool, 19% polyamide and 5% brown elastane. Filling 100% polyester.
• GAL2020.2.44.1-3
• Acquisition, Vogue Paris Foundation 2019 ; former Vicky Roditis collection
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Many of the silhouettes in Martin Margiela's Autumn-Winter 2008-09 collection surprise with their large high collars, in reality tubes in fleece jersey that cover the face up to the eyes. The "cone" shape is the result of the fashion designer's latest research: the necklines of jackets, cabanas, pullovers and trench coats start at the shoulders and rise vertically, stiffly up to the ears. The face, of which you can only see the eyes, is as if surrounded by the garment. An ingenious system of internal shoulder pads keeps this conical build in place. The maximum amplitude of the upper body contrasts with the lower body, which is tight.

Reworking and developing the structure and construction of the garment has always been an integral part of our work," says Maison Martin Margiela in a release. "Our collection for autumn-winter 2008-2009 is therefore an evolution of what we developed several seasons ago. »

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson