Ensemble "Silvia R.", Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli


  • Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli, with the collaboration of Philip Treacy (headdress)

  • Label on the woven cloth dress, inside right shoulder seam, cream on ivory: "VALENTINO / HAUTE COUTURE"
  • Haute couture, Spring-Summer 2018
  • Fuchsia silk flaw. Blackcurrant silk flaw. Pink silk organza. 263 turkey feathers debarked and cut in fuchsia tones held on a fuschia painted metal structure and held by pink thread. Black silk mesh. Pale gold leather. Aged brass. Sweden pinkish beige.
  • GAL2019.26.1-5
  • Donation of Valentino – Vogue Paris Foundation 2018
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Valentino, a fashion house founded in 1960 in Rome, is managed by Pierpaolo Picchioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri since 2008. Their creations emanate an almost aristocratic poetry and evidence, like those straight out of a Botticelli painting. When Maria Grazia Chiuri left in 2016 for the Christian Dior house, Pierpaolo Picchioli kept their style and refined it.

The Spring-Summer 2018 haute couture collection is characteristic of this desire of the artistic director, both in the perfect treatment of the shades close to the colours of some Primitive Italian paintings. The shape of the dress given to the Galliera Palace is inspired by a baby doll dress, a typology launched by Balenciaga in 1956. Its fuchsia colour is adorned on the side with a large knot of blackcurrant rift. The aerial headdresses are among the most popular elements of the parade. Made by British milliner Philip Treacy, they are bristling with 263 turkey feathers dyed to the colour of the dress. This is the first Treacy model to be integrated into the collections of the Paris Fashion Museum.

This collection, beyond its aesthetic success, is a tribute to the seamstresses in the company's workshops, nicknamed "the little hands" in fashion jargon, a synecdoche that Picchioli hates. This ensemble is named "Sylvia R." in homage to one of them.

>> Discover the show on Vogue.fr

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson