Ensemble, Yohji Yamamoto

SHIRT, BUSTIER DRESS, MID-LENGTH SKIRT AND PAIR OF HIGH BOOTS; IN HOMAGE TO AZZEDINE ALAÏA

  • Yohji Yamamoto

  • Folded label in woven cloth on the shirt, inside left seam, on the bustier dress, inside in front of the bottom of the left bustier, on the skirt, inside mid-back waist, black on grey: "Yohji Yamamoto".
  • Ready-to-wear, Fall-Winter 2018-19
  • Black cotton canvas. Black goat leather. Black cotton canvas. Wool and nylon brushed canvas. Black cotton twill. Black leather, velvet calf and rubber. Blackened metal.
  • GAL2019.1.58.1-5
  • Acquisition Vogue Paris Foundation 2018
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Yohji Yamamamoto's Fall-Winter 2018-19 swow is a double tribute. The first to "Mr Cubism", Pablo Picasso, influenced by the painter's eponymous period. The second to the creator Azzedine Alaïa, who died on November 18, 2017, in a series of silhouettes entitled "My dear Azzedine".

The two creators, friends since 1987, had a common admiration for each other. Although their visions are different, their passion for the dark and the rigour of their construction make each of them undisputed masters of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

The tribute to the late creator and friend is expressed in the work of leather, rare for Yohji Yamamoto, in a corset with cut-outs and a draped skirt. This shape is reminiscent of the draped black fault dresses in Azzedine Alaïa's haute couture collection, spring-summer 2003, one of which features a leather bustier adorned with a molded crocodile skin. This allusion to the corset and its cuts can also be compared to the openwork leather corset of spring-summer 1992, which is now part of the Palais Galliera collections.

>> Discover the show on Vogue.fr

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson