"Warm wine" ensemble, Jean Paul Gaultier

JACKET, DRAPED TOP AND FUSEAU TROUSERS

  • Jean Paul Gaultier

  • Handwritten satin bolduc on jacket, inside seam on right side, black on pink beige: "Gaultier #13"
  • Haute couture, fall-winter 2017-18, "Global Warming" collection
  • Toile de laine bordeaux à rayures tennis jaune. Entoilage. Boutons en corne type écaille [?]. Doublure en satin de soie rose chair. Mousseline crêpon de soie orange curcuma. Toile de laine bordeaux à rayures tennis jaune. Gros grain noir. Ruban en élasthanne noir. Métal.
  • GAL2020.12.1.1-3
  • Donation of Jean Paul Gaultier – Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
  • Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

From 1997 and his first haute couture collection, Jean Paul Gaultier resumed the tradition of naming models, which he diverts with humour. This is the case for the 2017-18 autumn-winter 2017-18 fashion show, "Global Warming" and passage n°13, baptised "Vin chaud", certainly in reference to its wine-coloured lees.

The men's suit with wine lees tennis stripes is an iconic piece of the wardrobe imagined by Jean-Paul Gaultier in the 1980s. Its size is however increased by two imposing wings, described as "short Belvedere shoulders" in the description of the parade programme. This rigidity contrasts with the fuzziness of the sari draped in mandarin-coloured silk crepe whose association with the lees is another signature of Jean Paul Gaultier.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson