"Tourniquet" Shirt, Martin Margiela

• Martin Margiela

• White virgin cotton canvas label held by 4 stitching points, inside the shirt, middle back
• Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 1990-91
• Cotton and wool (?) tartan with brown checks and peach lines on a white background, ribbed jersey 30% wool and 70% black acrylic.
• GAL2020.2.21
• Acquisition, Fondation Vogue Paris 2019, ancienne collection Vicky Roditis
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Passage number 42 from Martin Margiela's autumn-winter 1990-91 collection is a checkered shirt similar to the lumberjack's, mounted and twisted on an adjoining black jumper. The drapery is set in a tourniquet. This top is accompanied by a long skirt cut into men's trousers.

The hybrid garment, neither really a jumper nor quite a shirt, is one of Martin Margiela's signatures. The model of this shirt was taken up again for the exhibition "The world according to its creators", presented at the Palais Galliera in 1991, the first carte blanche offered to the Belgian designer.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson