Ensemble, Saint Laurent

• Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello

• Label on the dress in woven satin, inside back neckline on the left side, black on ivory: "SAINT LAURENT / PARIS"
• Ready-to-wear, fall-winter 2018-19
• Black woollen twill. Black painted metal. Black silk twill. Black rabbit felt. Black grosgrain. Silver-plated metal. Shiny white crystal rhinestones. Black enamel. Varnished black eel skin strips. Black lacquered brass. Black leather.
• GAL2020.20.1.1-5
• Donation of Saint Laurent ; Vogue Paris Foundation 2019
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

In 2016, the Belgian designer Anthony Vacarello is appointed artistic director of the Saint Laurent House. His very short evening dresses, often in leather, abundantly embroidered or draped, with large squares, join the heritage of this house created in 1962 through grandiose open-air fashion shows organised at the Trocadero, at the centre of an impressive ephemeral architecture.

Yves Saint Laurent's influence is noticeable in this long black sheath, with a whaleboned décolleté that opens out at the front of the shoulders and then falls radically at the mid-point in front. The couturier had already worked on models with similar necklines for his autumn-winter 1993-94 haute couture collection. Although its use for evening wear appeared from the 1940s onwards, wool was relatively rare for long dresses.

The wide-brimmed hat, inspired by the 1970s, is placed at an angle on the head and overhangs a torso necklace made of crystal and black enamelled metal. Invisible, the boots are made of strips of varnished black eelskin and complete the talent of the House of Saint Laurent for accessories.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson